A classic recipe
Inspired by the Borough Market
True to form, it’s a fun take on classics that is really our trip on a plate: Onglet steak and celeriac and potato rösti with kimchi butter.
We’re back! To show us a recipe inspired by our trip to Borough Market, food writer Ed Smith, our expert guide, visited kitchen stories in one of our next125 kitchen. Ed describes his approach, which you can see for yourself in On The Side or The Borough Market Cookbook as "easy but thoughtful home cooking, incorporating good produce, global techniques and flavours, and ultimately the minimum effort for maximum result.” True to form, it’s a fun take on classics that is really our trip on a plate: Onglet steak and celeriac and potato rösti with kimchi butter.
The recipe’s foundation is a low-effort, high-flavored kimchi butter (after visiting Eaten Alive, how could it not be) which has more than one application in the recipe: Ed uses the butter to fry the rösti – for which your usual potato is bolstered by fragrant celeriac for something a little different – and to baste our delicious cut of onglet (also known as hanger steak), like the one we bought from Northfield Farm at Borough. To freshen things up on the side is super-quick, tangy herbal salad with parsley, capers, and red onion.
What you need to know before you get cooking
What’s better than butter?
There is only one thing to love more than butter—and that is an upgraded butter. In this recipe Ed blends tangy kimchi with softened butter that can then be spread directly over bread, or used to cook and finish dishes. I may or may not have taken what was left home and applied it liberally all across my home cooking —so, trust me, you won't be disappointed to have leftover butter from the recipe to stash in the fridge.
What is onglet (or hanger) steak?
Onglet, also known as hanger steak, is a full flavored cut of steak that is often compared to rib-eye in taste. Taken from between the rib and loin, the cut is marbled with fat, which means it bastes itself from within when you cook it—and if you do it right (cooked to medium and no longer!) it can be a literal melt-in-yourmouth moment. It’s a cut that’s pretty much always served sliced across the grain, that you’ll often see marinated, and holds up just as well to being seasoned with salt and fried in a hot pan or basted with liquid-gold kimchi butter like we did.
Feeling rusty on rösti?
If you’ve got a box grater, a sieve, a bowl, and a kitchen towel, you’re ready to go. The two key things are to squeeze enough liquid out of the grated vegetables so, as Ed says in the video, the rösti fry in the pan rather than boil, and to cook them over medium heat so the outer layer turns a lovely golden brown (giving your some structure to make flipping easier, too) but the inside also has the chance to cook through. It’s also important to bear in mind that rösti rhymes with rustic (well, almost), so they don’t need to be perfect circles. However, if you are looking for geometry, you can use ring forms to help give them that perfect shape. In the meantime, you’ll find me picking the crispy bits from the pan.